"How much does it cost?"
"Is it on sale?"
"I never pay full retail."
If you've never heard or used one or all of these phrases, you're dead or too damn rich to be wasting time reading this blog. Either get the hell off my blog or write me a big fat check. But I digress.
The above phrases are as pervasive in American, and probably world, culture as "hello," "goodbye," or "I would have gotten away with it too, if it weren't for you meddling kids."
You're probably wondering where I am going with this. Trust me, there's a point somewhere towards the end. I have been doing a good deal of thinking (GASP) lately about the concept of value and its correlation, or lack thereof, with price. Let's not beat around the bush, we live in commercial hell (professional irony acknowledged), and unless you wish to seclude yourself in Thoreau-inspired seclusion, consumption is a part of everyday life.
This thinking has been inspired by the announcement on January 13th that Brooks Brothers would be re-introducing their
"original" unlined Oxford Cloth Button Down shirt. Opinions are mixed, to say the least, on this development. If you're unfamiliar with the trajectory of Brooks' largest contribution to American menswear, please visit
Ivy-Style.com, where the terrific columnists have expounded on the past, present, and future of the shirt. Spark Notes: Brooks cut more and more corners over the past thirty years, and have been passing off a shit product as the real thing, while charging a price ($90) associated with the real thing. As of January 13th, they have acknowledged this and returned the quality to what it should be. To apologize for 30 years of deceit, they were nice enough to jack the price up to $140. Nice touch, eh? While I'm on this rant, I might as well add that the only thing worse than the product is the service. Walk into a store and you're greeted by a bunch of grumpy old bastards, who make it seem as if you are causing them major annoyance by shopping in their store.
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| The New (Old) Brooks Oxford Cloth Button Down |
While the Brooks product, not just the shirts mind you, has increased in price and declined in quality, the company has also morphed into a mundane, everyday, sale-pushing retailer. This is best described in a great piece from The Hogtown Rake, where the magnificent Bruce Boyer is quoted on the topic, stating, "Today, Brooks Brothers seem to be a low-rent Italian department store. Brooks was never a high-priced store. It prided itself, and made it's reputation, on being good quality at a fair price, which along with conservative understated taste appealed to The Eastern Establishment. Today I'm not sure to whom Brooks appeals."
Strangely enough, the company's increase in price has coincided with ever-present sales. Twice a year, dress shirts (the shittily constructed ones mind you) can be purchased 40% off when buying 4 at time. While this seems great from a consumer standpoint: "cheaper, hurrah!" It does beg the question, do we buy the shirts because they are good? Or just because they are cheap? I can unequivocally say the latter is the case.
The Brooks Brothers example is but a microcosm of larger society and culture. If you think I am about to say something about "the good old days" or "when America was great," go to hell, because I ain't. Like it or not, this question has been around since the dawn of human existence. Perhaps modern manufacturing, cheap developing-world labor, and short attention spans have thrust it to the forefront of our consciousness. I'm looking at you H&M.
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| Would you like any shirt with your logo? |
All is not lost of course. After receiving a pretty poor experience, particularly my treatment by sales associates, at 2 separate Brooks Brothers stores this afternoon, I stopped by Ralph's new 5th Avenue store on the way home. My dislike of logos has pushed me away from Ralph over the last ten years, but the product on the shelves (some logo free!) was clearly high quality, although somewhat overpriced. Even more impressive was the attentiveness and friendliness of the sales associates, who welcomed me, explained the layout of the store, and asked if there were any specific items on my mind. It was a thoroughly pleasurable experience, even if just for rubber-necking one afternoon. Hat's off to them.
Anyways, all of this leads me to a question for you dear reader, if for some reason unbeknownst to me, you have made it this far. When you head out into the marketplace, what is the highest priority, value or price? Would you rather buy one well-made pair of shoes, or five cheap pairs? Am I full of it? Would love to hear any opinions.
